If you’ve spent any time browsing handcrafted resin pieces or scouring for unique, long-lasting decorative accents, you’ve likely run across resin ornaments that double as functional magnets—think tiny resin florals on a fridge, custom pet portraits on a file cabinet, or even branded pieces on office whiteboards. As a resin ornaments supplier who’s tested every major resin type for these exact applications, I get asked this question at least once a week: Can you make these resin ornaments with standard resin casting resin for magnets? The short answer is yes— but it’s not as simple as pouring any old casting resin into a mold and dropping a magnet in. Over the past seven years in this business, I’ve seen way too many new resin makers skip the critical details here, leading to magnets falling out, ornaments chipping within weeks, or finishes that turn cloudy by month two. Today, I’m breaking down the science behind this process, the mistakes I’ve learned the hard way, and what makes a resin ornament made for magnets different from one made for display only. Resin Ornaments
First, let’s get clear on two terms that often get mixed up: resin casting resin and the type of resin used for magnets. When most people say “resin casting resin,” they’re referring to the two-part epoxy resin that’s designed for pouring into silicone molds, curing to a hard, clear finish, and shaping into art, coasters, or ornaments. That’s the stuff most hobbyists pick up at craft stores, and it’s often the first thing people reach for when they want to add a magnet to a resin piece. But here’s the key: not all casting resins are compatible with magnets, and not all magnets work with casting resin. Let’s start with the magnet side, because if you choose the wrong magnet, no resin will hold it in place long-term.
I’ve tested three main types of magnets for resin ornaments, and only two work reliably for this application. The first is neodymium disc magnets, which are strong, small, and thin—perfect for thin ornaments that need to stick to metal surfaces. The second is flexible rubberized magnets, which are cheaper and work if you don’t need super strong hold, but they’re not as durable for thick, heavy resin pieces. The one to avoid? Ferrite bar magnets. I tried those once early on, and they’re brittle, weak, and they often corrode when exposed to resin’s curing chemicals, leading to rust streaks staining the resin from the inside out. Neodymium is the go-to for professional resin ornaments, and even among neodymium, there are grades: I use N42 and N52 grades, which are strong enough to hold a 3-inch resin ornament (about a quarter-inch thick) on a fridge door without slipping, and thin enough that they don’t bulk up the back of the ornament.
Now, the resin part. The biggest mistake new makers make is using regular clear casting resin for ornaments made with magnets. Regular casting resin is designed to be self-leveling, which means it flows smoothly to fill a mold without bubbles, but it’s also somewhat flexible when cured? No, wait, no—wait, it’s rigid, but it has a different molecular structure than resin formulated specifically for embedding magnets. Wait, let me get that right. Regular casting resin cures to a hard, rigid finish, but it has a slightly higher shrinkage rate during curing (usually around 3-5% by volume) than resin that’s engineered for embedding small objects like magnets. That shrinkage is the problem. If you pour regular casting resin around a neodymium magnet, as the resin cures, it pulls inward toward its center, and that constant inward pull creates tension at the point where the magnet sits. Over time, that tension can cause the resin to crack around the magnet, or even push the magnet out entirely, especially if the ornament is jostled or exposed to temperature changes (like being on a fridge that’s opened and closed multiple times a day).
Resin that’s formulated specifically for magnet embedding has a much lower shrinkage rate—usually less than 1% by volume. That means when it cures, it doesn’t pull inward sharply, so it forms a tight, secure bond with the magnet rather than creating tension. It also has a higher tensile strength, which means it can handle the weight of the magnet and the everyday wear and tear of a decorative fridge ornament. I learned this the hard way in 2019, when I switched from a budget casting resin to a magnet-specific resin. For the first six months, roughly 12% of my custom resin magnet ornaments came back from customers with fallen magnets or cracked resin. After the switch, that rate dropped to less than 1%. That’s not a small difference—for a small business, that’s the difference between happy repeat customers and negative reviews that tanked my Etsy shop back then.
There’s another key scientific factor here: adhesion. When you embed a magnet in resin, you want the resin to stick to the magnet’s surface, not just hold it in place with friction. Neodymium magnets are coated with either nickel, zinc, or epoxy, and their surface texture is smooth, which makes it hard for resin to bond tightly. Magnet-specific resins are formulated with adhesion promoters that bond to metal surfaces, so the resin doesn’t just sit around the magnet—it wraps around it, creating a permanent bond that doesn’t break down over time. Regular casting resin doesn’t have those adhesion promoters, so even if the shrinkage isn’t an issue, the magnet can slip out if the resin has any slight gap around it from bubbles or improper pouring.
Wait, can you actually use resin casting resin for magnets, then? The short answer is you can, but only if you modify it. I’ve tested adding an adhesion promoter to regular casting resin, and that works for small, lightweight ornaments—like a 1-inch resin flower magnet. But for anything thicker than a quarter-inch, or anything larger than 2 inches across, modifying regular casting resin isn’t reliable. It’s worth noting that even when I do use a modified casting resin for small pieces, I still recommend them for indoor use only, not outdoors or on surfaces that get a lot of temperature fluctuation. Magnet-specific resin, on the other hand, works for outdoor resin ornaments too, like resin garden markers that double as magnets for metal fence posts, or ornaments that go on outdoor fridge compartments in RVs.
Now, let’s talk about the process, because even if you have the right resin and the right magnet, you have to do it correctly to avoid mistakes. The first step is preparing the magnet. No matter what resin you’re using, you need to clean the magnet thoroughly—use isopropyl alcohol to wipe off any manufacturing oils, then let it dry completely. If you skip this, the oil will create a barrier between the magnet and the resin, leading to poor adhesion. Next, you need to place the magnet in your mold at the right depth. For thin ornaments, I usually place the magnet about halfway into the resin, so half is embedded and half is exposed on the back. For thicker pieces, I bury the magnet just below the surface, so it’s not visible from the front of the ornament. The mistake here is putting the magnet too close to the front surface—if it’s within 1/8 of an inch, the magnet can show through as a dark spot, or even create a slight bulge in the resin as it cures.
Bubbles are another big issue. When you pour resin, especially around small objects like magnets, air bubbles get trapped easily. To fix this, I use a small butane torch to pop surface bubbles, and for bubbles near the magnet, I use a fine-tipped heat gun to gently move the air out without disturbing the magnet. If you leave bubbles, they can create weak points in the resin that can crack, or leave gaps between the resin and magnet that lead to the magnet falling out.
Curing time also matters. Magnet-specific resin usually cures completely in 24 hours, but I always let it cure for 72 hours before demolding and adding any finishing touches, like sanding the back or adding a protective coat. Regular casting resin takes about the same time, but because of the higher shrinkage, I recommend waiting an extra 24 hours to make sure the resin has cured fully before handling it, to avoid putting stress on the magnet-resin bond.
I also want to address a common myth: some hobbyists say that embedding a magnet in resin will destroy its magnetic field. That’s not true. Neodymium magnets only lose their magnetism if they’re exposed to temperatures above 176 degrees Fahrenheit, and resin curing happens at room temperature (usually between 70 and 80 degrees) or slightly heated, which is way below that threshold. I’ve had resin magnet ornaments that are three years old, and the magnets still hold strong—way longer than if you just glued a magnet to the surface of a resin ornament (which is a separate method, and one that I never recommend, because glue can fail over time).
As a resin ornaments supplier, I’ve seen all the tricks and all the pitfalls. I recently got a message from a customer who bought a set of resin magnolia magnets from a hobbyist on Instagram, and within a week, one of the magnets had fallen out, leaving a hole in the resin. When I asked her what resin the maker used, she said it was regular casting resin from a big-box craft store. That’s the exact mistake I made back in 2019. She ended up buying a set from me, and she’s ordered three more sets since then for her family. The difference is night and day—my resin magnet ornaments are made with magnet-specific resin, so the magnets are embedded securely, no cracks, no cloudy finishes, and they hold their shape for years.
If you’re a hobbyist looking to make resin ornaments with magnets for personal use, you can absolutely use resin casting resin, as long as you follow the rules: clean your magnets, add an adhesion promoter, keep the ornament small and thin, and avoid putting it in extreme temperatures. But if you’re looking to make these to sell, or if you want something that will last, investing in resin formulated for embedding magnets is non-negotiable. It’s not that casting resin is bad—it’s just designed for a different purpose, and when you mix up the two, you end up with products that don’t hold up.
At the end of the day, resin ornaments made with magnets are such a great product because they’re functional and decorative at the same time. They add a personal touch to any metal surface, whether it’s a fridge, a filing cabinet, or a memo board. But the quality only comes through if you pay attention to the details: choosing the right magnet, the right resin, and the right process. If you’re in the market for durable, high-quality resin magnet ornaments, or if you’re a maker looking to source the right materials, I’m here to help. I’ve spent years refining this process, and I can share all the tips, tricks, and products that will make your resin magnet ornaments last for years.
Resin Medium Photo Frame References
- "Resin Embedding Best Practices for Small Objects." Craft & Hobby Association, 2021.
- Neodymium Magnet Technical Data Sheet. Super Magnet Man, 2022.
- "Shrinkage Rates of Common Casting Resins." Journal of Polymer Craft Applications, 2020.
- Adhesion Properties of Epoxy Resins for Metal Substrates. Journal of Adhesion Science and Technology, 2019.
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